September in Pembrokeshire
There is something slightly different about Pembrokeshire in September. Summer hasn't disappeared. The sea has had months of sunshine to warm up, the landscape is still overwhelmingly green, and there can be plenty of those beautiful bright days that make you forget you're technically heading towards autumn.
But the pace has changed. The busiest weeks of the summer have passed, the beaches begin to breathe again and the county feels just a little less hurried. And that's only part of the story.
If you're someone who likes the idea of a sea swim but isn't particularly keen on the cold-water challenge, September has a rather appealing advantage. The sea doesn't suddenly cool down when August ends. It has spent the whole summer absorbing heat, meaning September can actually be one of the best times of year for sea swimming, with coastal waters retaining their summer warmth.
So while the first signs of autumn might be appearing on land, the sea hasn't necessarily got the memo.
September is also an interesting time to look beyond the obvious scenery. Grey seal pupping season begins around the Pembrokeshire coast from late August onwards, with pups arriving on remote beaches and islands through the autumn. The Pembrokeshire Coast National Park says pups can be seen from August to November, with Ramsey and Skomer particularly important sites.
And it's not just seals. Autumn migration brings a changing cast of birds to the Pembrokeshire coastline, while the nutrient-rich waters support an impressive variety of marine life. Dolphins and porpoises can be spotted from the coast and on boat trips, although sightings are never guaranteed.
It's one of those times when keeping your eyes open while you're out and about can reward you. Of course, seal pups are best admired from a respectful distance. The National Park specifically advises keeping away from beaches where pups are present and watching from the Coast Path where possible.
September isn't just about looking at the sea. For anyone who'd rather be in it, the water has had all summer to warm up, while Pembrokeshire's coastline offers plenty of opportunities for surfing, kayaking, paddleboarding, coasteering and other water-based activities.
There is something quite different about seeing the Pembrokeshire coastline from the water. Caves, cliffs, arches and secluded coves take on a completely different character when you're looking back at the coast rather than walking along it. For surfers, the changing seasons can also bring a shift in conditions, while those who enjoy kayaking or paddleboarding can make the most of the variety of coastline around the county.
And if you're feeling particularly adventurous, Pembrokeshire is, after all, the birthplace of modern coasteering.
September in Pembrokeshire doesn't necessarily mean golden woodland and crunchy leaves. That's still to come. For now, it's more of a crossover between summer and autumn.
The hedgerows and woodland can still look wonderfully green, late-summer flowers are still doing their thing, and the coastline retains that unmistakable summer feel. But every now and then you'll spot the first leaf beginning to turn, a slightly different light in the evening or that subtle shift in the air that tells you the seasons are moving.
It's summer beginning to slow rather than autumn arriving overnight.
There is also the obvious difference: space. The busiest school-holiday weeks have passed, so the experience of exploring Pembrokeshire can feel very different. The beaches are often quieter, the roads less hectic and the coastal paths give you more opportunity to stop and actually take in what's around you.
And because there are still plenty of daylight hours, September doesn't require the mindset of a winter break. You can still make the most of a full day outdoors without having to race the sunset.
One of the things we love about Pembrokeshire is that the coastline is never quite the same from one month to the next.
By September, the wildlife calendar is beginning to change. The seabird breeding season is winding down, grey seal pups are arriving, migrant birds are passing through and the marine life beneath the surface continues to make the surrounding waters remarkably rich. It means that the same coastline you've walked past in July can offer something completely different when you return in September. And that's perhaps one of the nicest things about Pembrokeshire - there's always another reason to look twice.
Maybe that's why September works so well in Pembrokeshire. The sea still feels like summer. The landscape hasn't turned autumnal yet. The wildlife is changing, the crowds have eased and there's still plenty of daylight to get outside and make the most of it.
It's a small window between the rush of summer and the full arrival of autumn — and perhaps that's exactly what makes it special.
September in Pembrokeshire: all the good bits of summer, with a little less hustle and bustle.
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